Highlights:

• Acropolis
• Acropolis Museum
• Temple of Zeus
• Syntagma Square
• National Archeological Museum
• Monostraki
• Plaka
• Food in Athens
• Ferry System

In 2019 we took our third trip to Greece, a country we have come to love over the last several years. There is truly something magical and special there be it, the people, the places, the hospitality. We planned on 3 weeks total, spending 3 days in Athens, a day trip several hours northwest of Athens, to the birthplace of the Oracle at Delphi, almost a week on the island of Paros and a week on the island of Naxos. Athens and Naxos we had visited on previous trips, but Delphi and Paros would be new destinations for us. For the first part of our trip, our good friend Linda, another intrepid traveler, would be joining us.

Greece, the cradle of civilization and architecture is a fascinating destination, and one of our favorites, thus we keep going back. There is an incredible amount of history, culture and energy here. If you can learn some simple phrases in Greek: Hello, thank you, your welcome, excuse me, cheers, etc. communication will be straightforward. Most Greeks speak at least a little bit of English, and Google translate can help fill in the rest. The Greek people are extremely friendly and helpful, and we have had no major communication issues in most of the places we have visited in Greece. With taxis or UBER’s, it helps to have your destination address either already programed in Google maps or written down to show to your driver.

Athens is a bustling metropolitan city, gritty and crowded, but home to some fantastic sites: the Acropolis, the Parthenon, the Acropolis Museum, the Temple of Olympian Zeus, Syntagma Square, Hadrian’s Gate, the Ancient Agora of Athens, the National Archaeological Museum, the Plaka, and Monastiraki area. These areas are heavy with tourists and the pick pockets that follow, so mind your valuables!

THE ACROPOLIS
The Acropolis of Athens is an ancient citadel located on a rocky outcrop above the city of Athens and contains the remains of several ancient buildings of great archaeological, architectural and historic significance, the most famous being the Parthenon. The Parthenon and the other buildings were seriously damaged during the 1687 siege by the Venetians during the Morean War when gunpowder being stored in the Parthenon was hit by a cannonball and exploded.

We recommend getting “The Athens Pass” which will get you entrance to several sites: Acropolis, Acropolis Museum, Hadrian’s Gate, Temple of Zeus, and several other in Athens. If you have the time, enjoy the Acropolis from one of a handful of rooftop bars with their stunning views. Do a quick Google search for the latest information on the Athens Pass, as it is updated regularly. https://citypasses.eu/en/citytrip-athens/athens-city-pass/

THE ACROPOLIS MUSEUM
The Acropolis Museum is an archaeological museum focused on the findings from the archaeological site of the Acropolis of Athens. The museum was built to house every artifact found on the rock and on the surrounding slopes, from the Greek Bronze Age to Roman and Byzantine Greece. The museum also lies over the ruins of a part of Roman and early Byzantine Athens. The museum was founded in 2003, while the Organization of the Museum was established in 2008. It opened to the public on 20 June 2009. More than 4,250 objects are exhibited over an area of 14,000 square meters. An interesting place to explore if you like archeology and ancient history as we do. We spent a couple of hours there but could have easily spent several more.

THE TEMPLE OF ZEUS
The Temple of Olympian Zeus, also known as the Columns of the Olympian Zeus, is a former colossal temple at the center of the Greek capital, in Athens. It was dedicated to “Olympian” Zeus, a name originating from his position as head of the Olympian gods. Construction began in the 6th century BC during the rule of the Athenian tyrants, who envisioned building the greatest temple in the ancient world, but it was not completed until the reign of the Roman Emperor Hadrian in the 2nd century AD, some 638 years after the project had begun. During the Roman period the temple, which included 104 colossal columns, was renowned as the largest temple in Greece and housed one of the largest cult statues in the ancient world. The temple’s glory was short-lived, as it fell into disuse after being pillaged during a barbarian invasion in 267 AD, just about a century after its completion. It was probably never repaired and was reduced to ruins thereafter. In the centuries after the fall of the Roman Empire, it was extensively raided for building materials to supply building projects elsewhere in the city. Our ancestors were “recycling” even back in ancient times. These columns are so huge, it is an incredibly impressive monument up close. Be sure to get a photo with a person in it for a sense of scale. As we are here, we keep thinking, “how did they build these with no computers, and no heavy construction equipment? Lifting these huge pieces so high up looks nearly impossible. I would love to know how they did it.”

SYNTAGMA SQUARE
Syntagma Square is the central square of Athens. The square is named after the Constitution that Otto, the first King of Greece, was obliged to grant after a popular and military uprising on 3 September 1843. It is in front of the 19th century Old Royal Palace, housing the Greek Parliament since 1934. Syntagma Square is the most important square of modern Athens from both a historical and social point of view, at the heart of commercial activity and Greek politics. This is where you can view the Greek soldiers keeping watch with a lively high step with tasseled shoes, as they march their patrol. We stopped for coffee here to wait for the hourly changing of the guards to get pictures.

NATIONAL ARCHEOLOGICAL MUSEUM
The National Archeological Museum in Athens houses some of the most important artifacts from a variety of archaeological locations around all of Greece from prehistory to late antiquity. It is considered one of the greatest museums in the world and contains the richest collection of artifacts from Greek antiquity worldwide. We spent a morning here and then headed to Monastiraki area for lunch.

MONASTIRAKI
Monastiraki is a neighborhood in the old town of Athens, Greece, and is one of the principal shopping districts in Athens. The area is home to clothing boutiques, souvenir shops, flea markets and specialty stores, and is a major tourist attraction and destination for shopping. Monastiraki is a stop on the Metro making it easy to find. Close to this stop you will find the shop of the Poet Sandal maker, a third-generation custom sandal maker for Greek sandals in many styles. You select a style, measure and order one day and pick up completed sandals the next day. We each got a pair when we were there. Check Google for more information as there was a planned relocation scheduled for 2020. Within our photo albums here you can see the Poet Sandal maker at work, still making hand made sandals each day, with photos in his shop of the Beatles, Judy Garland and celebrities!

PLAKA
The Pláka is the old historical neighborhood of Athens, clustered around the northern and eastern slopes of the Acropolis, and incorporating a maze of ancient streets and neoclassical architecture. Plaka is built on top of the residential areas of the ancient town of Athens. It is known as the “Neighborhood of the Gods” due to its proximity to the Acropolis and its many archaeological sites.

FOOD IN ATHENS
One of our favorite things about traveling to Greece, is being able to taste and sample the fabulous cuisine of Greece. The Greeks take extraordinary pride and joy in sharing their cuisine. The climate, weather and soil of Greece provides fantastic tomatoes, herbs, fruits and vegetables that literally explode with delightful flavor and taste. While most people think of Gyros and Baklava as the main staple of Greek diet, they are great, but there are many different dishes that will make your taste buds incredibly happy.

From Greek salads, loaded with olive oil, capers, tomatoes, and cucumber that will excite your mouth, Moussaka, served in most Greek Tavernas, a fantastic dish of beef, tomato and eggplant that will leave you craving more! Souvlaki, grilled chicken or lamb served with Tzatziki sauce and usually French fries or Greek potatoes. But afterwards be prepared for a multitude of Greek desserts including Baclava, Pasteli, sesame seeds and honey, Loukoumades, my favorite, which are little bite sized golden puffs of fried dough sprinkled with sweet syrup or honey, walnuts and cinnamon. Delish!
There are a multitude of indoor/outdoor tavernas in Athens and the islands, that are casual family friendly restaurants to choose from especially around the Plaka in Athens. Strolling musicians and shoppers enhance the eating experience, as you take in the fantastic smells and flavors of Greece.

FERRY SYSTEM
Greece is a large country that includes the mainland and over 6,000 islands with over 227 or them being inhabited. You can fly to some of the larger islands or choose the more popular method to travel to the islands, the Ferry System. We used the ferry system on each of our trips when departing Athens for the islands.

While most people choose Santorini, Mykonos or Corfu as their destination, our preference is the smaller islands in the Cyclades. We chose to return to Naxos which we had previously visited 5 years ago and visit Paros its sister island. Because the port at Piraeus in Athens can be terribly busy in the mornings, we selected to go there and purchase our tickets a day ahead to save time on our departure day. Piraeus is located approximately 12 miles from city center and is quite busy in the mornings, the most popular times for ferries to depart. From the numerous ferries departing throughout the day you can choose either the high-speed ferries which cost about 30% percent more or the regular speed ferries that are quite comfortable and very safe. The Greeks are known for their long history as the best sailors in the world and being at “one” with the ocean. The ferry cost from Athens to Paros on the regular ferry coach accommodations are around 35 € and a First Class ticket goes for around 50 € one way. The ferry has food, drink, newspapers and duty- free shop as well as upper deck outdoor viewing areas providing a great way to experience the beauty of the Cyclades and the Aegean Sea.

PAROS
Paros is approximately 93 miles from Athens by ferry and is in the center of the Cyclades Islands in the Aegean Sea. The island is approximately 75 square miles and is known for its beautiful white marble, scenic mountain villages and spectacular coves and inlets that make up this beautiful island. There is truly a special peaceful energy here you feel immediately when you arrive! We particularly enjoyed slowing down the pace from the bustling city of Athens.

We arrived with our luggage and were greeted with the smell of salt water and ocean breezes. These were mixed with the beauty of the traditional Greek colors of white and blue on all the structures of the island, contrasted with the spectacular turquoise colors of the Aegean. Our accommodations were booked through Airbnb, and our communications with our hosts had instructed us to meet our “contact” at a particular beauty shop, behind the windmill, steps away from the ferry arrival location on Paros. We were to ask for a particular stylist, and her boyfriend would be the one to take us to the apartment, and get us settled. Sounded a little cloak and dagger, but being the adventurous sorts we are, we followed the directions precisely .

We found our contact, Jorgo and he welcomed us to Paros and told us we were going to enjoy our stay on this beautiful jewel of the Aegean Sea. We gathered our luggage and followed him through the clean winding streets and passageways of the small town, complete with blooming Bougainvillea. Welcome to the islands!

Our cozy 2-bedroom 2 bath Airbnb flat, had a rooftop terrace that allowed us to enjoy the epic Greek sunsets and views of the stars at night. Our host shared a wealth of information about the island, recommending locations for the best beaches, and places to eat and drink and hear live music. Our rental was in a fabulous location on a narrow side street in the heart of the local port town Parikia, and we considered it a perfect location.

We rented a car while we were on Paros so we could visit some other locations on the island. You could get by without a car, as there is much to see and do in Parikia; the small town where the ferry arrives. We spent one day traveling to the mountainous and charming quaint village of Lefkes, one of the oldest villages in Greece. The people were quite charming and the place we chose for lunch was a small family run taverna built on the side of a steep overlook. The dining area was a deck overlooking the pastoral village so beautiful, we spent several hours there enjoying the food and the views.

Traveling for us involves getting off the beaten path and engaging with locals as much as possible, because we believe it gives us a richer and more rewarding experience. This day was a perfect example, after lunch, we took a stroll from the taverna down the streets of the village to the church located up the hill from the small village of Lefkes.

Even though it was September, the afternoons were still quite, hot, and we took a break in the shade during our return stroll through this hilly residential area of the village and talked about how fortunate we were to be able to experience the beauty of Greece. We were each taken by surprise during our brief rest stop, when a door opened at the house right across from the wall were sitting on, and an older Greek woman approached us. She was carrying something and smiling and offered us a cluster of freshly washed green grapes, smiled, and gave them to us as a gift of hospitality and friendship.

She and turned and returned to her home as quickly as she had appeared. We were taken by surprise by this kind gesture. We all replied “Efharisto” (ef-caris-toe), “thank you” in Greek. We were left with a smile basking in the random moment of kindness we had just experienced! We were grateful for the warm hospitality and sweet taste of the grapes. This gift a stranger had shared with us, in a wonderful unplanned encounter typifies what Greek hospitality is all about.

The rest of days on Paros we spent exploring beaches, the shops of Parikia, and tavernas were nothing short of magical. We hope you will experience a special energy and sense of calm in the quaint seaside villages of Paros Greece on your visit. Time seems to stand still here.

NAXOS
A short ferry ride away, the closest neighboring island to Paros is Naxos, which is larger and more populated than Paros. On our departure day, we turned in the keys to our Airbnb at the hair salon by the port area. Then, we were to meet up with the car rental guy on the street, sign final paperwork and return the keys. The casual way we were park the car anywhere on the street and find the rental operator was certainly a departure from what we were used to in the states. After turning over the car, we settled in for a nice breakfast at an oceanside Taverna, to wait until time for our ferry to depart.

The Greek island of Naxos sits in the center of Cyclades islands group, in the heart of the Aegean sea. Its fertile landscape spans mountain villages, ancient ruins and long stretches of beach. The namesake capital (also called Naxos Town or Chora) is a port town filled with whitewashed, cube-shaped houses and a medieval Venetian castle. Kastro, the hilltop castle dates to the 13th century, housing an archaeological museum. On a previous trip we actually attended a night time concert in the castle ruin, an experience we highly recommend if you get the chance!

Naxos is the biggest and the greenest island of the Cyclades, boasting a magnificent natural landscape! The island’s rich history is reflected in the many archaeological sites here. The most iconic of them and the trademark of Naxos- Portara, the remains of a 2,000 year old huge marble gate, of an ancient temple dedicated to the Greek god Apollo. You can see pictures of this ancient gate in our photo albums from this trip.

While Naxos island is approximately 175 square miles or twice the size of Paros, it is still a quaint idyllic island. We stayed one week here in an Airbnb. We chose a terrific house overlooking the sea right outside of downtown. Our wonderful hostess provided us with fresh produce from her families garden every few days. Again, we rented a car here to be able to go exploring the other villages on the island. It was unseasonably windy while we were there, however we were still able to enjoy the many remote beaches, incredible sunsets, and warm Greek hospitality.

Much like Paros, the main town is centered around the port, with a multitude of taverna’s displaying fresh caught seafood from the Aegean Sea. You can enjoy the seating areas with a sea view as your dish is prepared. We spent the week exploring the beaches, taverna’s and shops throughout the island. There are many world class secluded beaches to choose from on Naxos. Many of these have available umbrellas and loungers for rent and even some include tavernas right on the beach for food and drink.

DAY SAILING WITH CAPTAIN GEORGE
We did 2 special activities while we were on Naxos. One was a full day sailing charter with Captain George on the Annabella sailing yacht. This was our second time sailing with Captain George and this sailing trip on the Annabella, his 42 foot sailing yacht is fantastic! Captain George even provides a CD with all the photos from the trip. Google Captain George Naxos, or go to http://www.naxossailing.com to make reservations for the original trip, as there are several copy-cat cruises. We enjoyed our sailing day, exploring some water caves along the way and stopping at AntiParos for lunch. Anti Paros is another small Island near Paros. We arrived back on Naxos just in time to get changed for dinner, and after dinner returned to the boat to pick up our CD of photos. We highly recommend Captain George and the Annabella.

MARBLE CARVING
The other special activity we did was and excursion we found on Trip Advisor. A half day marble carving experience. There were six other folks in our class and it was particularly interesting. The group was taught by a local artist, originally from America, who is married to a Greek. We had a bit of training, and some hands-on practice before beginning our pieces. We got as much help as we needed and were very proud of our works once completed. Marble carving is hard work! For us, we chose to make small pieces so we could transport them back easily in our suitcases without going over weight limit. Our two pieces now adorn the bed at the base of an olive tree in our garden at home. You can see the photos from the marble carving experience in the Naxos section of the Greece photo album.

Our stay on Naxos was complete, we retraced our steps. Checked out of our Airbnb, returned the rental car, and had a final lunch in one of our favorite seaside tavernas while waiting for our ferry back to Athens. We stayed again in the Ibis Styles, a brand new hotel in downtown Athens. Centrally located and very reasonably priced. The next morning, we took a taxi to the airport. We prefer a taxi when we have luggage to contend with, rather than wrestling with it on the Metro; although the Metro is less expensive if you are up for the journey. Then a quick flight back to London and one more night in London by the airport, before going back to Texas. There is a direct BA flight from London to Austin every day. This is our favorite way to get across the pond, and the departure and arrival times are good.

Greece continues to be a beloved place to visit for us. Each time we go we discover more places to explore on our next trip. We would like to return to check out the islands of Milos, Stifanos, Stilos, Skiros, Corfu, return to Crete, plus explore inland to Thessolonika. So many places, so little time, so much history. Enjoy the Journey!

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